Digging Dahlias

This Spring I planted seven dahlia tubers. Of those, four have have flowered, one has foliage only, and one has yet to show any signs of life. The three blooms that are missing are: 1.) Junaita: a large burgundy and ruby flower dating back to 1949; 2.) Little Beeswings: a yellow with red tip ball/button type from 1909; and 3.) a mystery dahlia picked up at Alderbrook Farm.

The gorgeous dahlias shown below are the following:

• Jersey's Beauty- a true pink, vigorous dahlia from 1923 which was once the world's most popular dahlia according to Old House Gardens. Plentiful blooms.
• Andries' Orange- Its full name 'Andres' Oranje As' honors a Jazz Age liquor from the Belgian town of As. This rare dahlia dates back to 1936 and has been in show all summer long.
• Pink Petticoat- a recent introduction with ruffled white petals that fade to pink at the tips.
• Bishop of Llandaff-  standout bronze foliage compliments the scarletred petals, a very stunning mix from 1927.

Some of my dahlias are just beginning to show off their blooms.  This was seeming late to me but it turns out they prefer cool weather and are most productive into the Fall.  Luckily we have not experienced a frost yet, but when we do the tips will die back in a signal to wait a week, then dig the tubers.  I noted the winter care instructions from a wonderful heirloom bulb company below......

From Old House Gardens:

WINTER CARE – IF you want to save tubers for re-planting the next spring, after

the tops have been “blackened” by frost, wait a week or so for the tubers to

harden and fully mature in the ground. The soil will generally protect them from

freezing. Then cut the stalks off a few inches above ground level. You’ll find

that the tubers you planted in early summer will have increased into much larger

clumps, so be careful when digging – start at least a foot away from the stalks.

Tag each clump with its name, wash off all soil, and allow it to dry upside down

in a cool, dry place for a day or two, no more.

Divide the clumps with asturdy knife in fall or spring. Be sure a piece of the “crown” – the thickened area where the stem meets the tuber – remains attached  to every clump, because the eyes (often more visible in fall) are located there. You may want to dust cuts with a fungicide such as garden sulfur. At the least allow cuts to air dry for a full day before storage. Store in plastic grocery bags, in plastic garbage bags inside boxes, or in covered plastic storage boxes to help keep the tubers from dehydrating. Pack in coarse vermiculite, peat moss, wood-shavings, or something similar. Store in a cool, dry, dark place, ideally at 40-45º F.

Check every now and then. Allow excess moisture to escape (look for

condensation) or sprinkle some water on tubers if they seem to be shriveling.

Or here’s an easy way recommended by Marian and Bernard Mandella and Richard

Peters in the Bulletin of the American Dahlia Society, September 2001. “Tear off

a sheet of plastic wrap 20 or more inches long and lay it flat on a level

surface. Place a [divided, dusted, and dried] tuber on one end and roll the

plastic wrap over one complete turn. Lay another alongside and roll again. Be

certain that no tuber is touching another…. You may wrap up to five tubers or so

per package, but in the last 5-7 inches, fold over the side portions of the

plastic wrap and continue to roll to completion. Fasten with a piece of masking

tape that is labeled with the cultivar’s name…. There is essentially no loss

from shriveling or drying.” Some of our customers who grow dahlias in pots

just bring them inside and let them dry out and over-winter right in their pots.

Others grow them in 5-gallon or even 1-gallon black plastic nursery pots that

they bury in the garden and then dig up and store in the basement through

winter. You may want to experiment with these extra-easy storage methods, too!

I will need to remember to dig my glads as well, I hope the tubers will store well over the winter.  How do you keep your tubers once dug?